Lucknow’s world-renowned Chikankari embroidery is more than just threadwork—it’s heritage stitched into fabric. Known for its delicate hand embroidery, Chikankari comes in many styles and stitches, each with its own story and technique. Whether you’re buying a Chikankari kurta or simply appreciating the craft, understanding its different types helps in identifying authentic artistry and choosing what suits your taste best.
1. Tepchi – The Simplest Form
Tepchi is a basic running stitch often used to outline motifs. This stitch is simple, elegant, and usually appears on the border areas of a kurta or dupatta. It’s perfect for daily wear kurtis as it gives a subtle finish.
Best For: Light daily-wear kurtas or cotton sarees.
Design Note: Look for straight-line embroidery, usually on georgette or cotton.
2. Bakhiya – The Shadow Work
Bakhiya is the signature stitch of Chikankari. Done on the reverse side of the fabric, it creates a shadow-like effect on the front. This gives the design a dreamy and layered appearance.
Best For: Festive kurtis and semi-formal ethnic wear.
Design Note: When turned over, the reverse will show more detailed threadwork than the front.
3. Phanda – Knotted Elegance
Phanda involves creating small knots resembling tiny flowers or buds. It’s usually paired with other stitches like murri to fill floral motifs.
Best For: Richly embroidered dress materials and bridal wear.
Design Note: Tiny raised dots forming petals or clusters in motifs.
4. Murri – The Grain Stitch
Murri stitches form grain-shaped motifs, often used in the centers of flowers. It’s one of the most refined stitches and indicates superior craftsmanship.
Best For: High-end kurtas, sarees, and party wear.
Design Note: Grain-shaped embroidery elements, especially within a floral design
5. Jali Work – The Net Illusion
Jali work in Chikankari creates a net-like effect without actually cutting the fabric. It’s one of the most intricate forms, giving a peek-a-boo effect on the skin.
Best For: Special occasions or designer wear.
Design Note: Look for net-style patches that feel slightly raised or open.
6. Hool – Eyelet Embroidery
Hool involves making small holes in the fabric and stitching around them to form flower centers or abstract motifs.
Best For: Unique ethnic wear pieces that stand out.
Design Note: Small perforated holes neatly stitched around in a circular motion.
Conclusion
Chikankari is a timeless embroidery style that celebrates tradition and elegance. When buying or styling Chikankari outfits, knowing these stitch types helps you appreciate the craft and choose designs based on your occasion—be it simple daily wear or intricate festive pieces.
By understanding these embroidery types, you not only embrace beautiful fashion but also support the artisans who keep this ancient art alive.
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