Chikankari embroidery is one of the most elegant and traditional forms of needlework that hails from the culturally rich city of Lucknow, India. Known for its intricate white-on-white floral patterns and timeless charm, Chikankari has adorned Indian attire for centuries. While the beauty of this craft lies in the detailed hand embroidery, the fabric it is worked on plays a crucial role in defining its grace and appeal.
Let’s explore the various types of fabrics used in Chikankari embroidery and understand why certain materials are preferred over others.
1. Cotton: The Timeless Classic
Chikankari embroidery is mostly used on cotton, the most conventional and well used material. It is breathable, light and soft to touch thus ideal to the artisans as well as the wearers. Cotton is more absorbent thus enabling easy drawing and tracing of the embroidery designs on it; it also has a matte finish making the stitches clear and visible.
Chikankari on cotton is actually most in demand during summer, because of its comfortableness as well as its stunning craftwork. The cotton Chikankari is popular in the wardrobe of Indians, especially in kurtas, saree and dupatta.
2. Georgette: Flowing Elegance
Georgette, a semi-sheer, lightweight, and flowing fabric, has become increasingly popular for Chikankari in modern times. Unlike cotton, georgette has a slight stretch and bounce, which allows the embroidery to add a delicate dimension to the drape.
This fabric is great for festive and formal wear as it gives chikankari a luxurious touch and still maintain the old world beauty of Chikankari. However, embroidery on georgette requires more care and skill, as the fabric can pucker if not handled delicately during the stitching process.
3. Silk: Royal Sophistication
Silk provides a perfect foundation of Chikankari to the people who are interested in opulence and wealth. The silky smooth characteristic of silk is in perfect counterpoint with the matte appearance of the embroidery thread allowing each stitch to stand out. Silk chikankari finds recognition in sarees, lehengas and designer attires worn during wedding and other festivities. Working on silk may need expert hands because it is slippery and very costly. The ultimate output, nevertheless, constitutes a magnificent mix of tradition and high end.
4. Muslin: The Historical Favorite
Historically, muslin was the preferred fabric for Chikankari during the Mughal era. Known for its fine weave and feather-like softness, muslin complements the subtle elegance of this embroidery. Though not as widely used today due to its delicate nature and limited availability, muslin still holds a place of reverence in traditional Chikankari.
Artisans using muslin must take great care, as the fabric is prone to tearing under pressure, especially when handling complex stitches.
5. Organza: Sheer Beauty
Organza is another fabric that has recently gained popularity in Chikankari designs. Its sheer, crisp texture allows the embroidery to float gracefully on the surface, giving an ethereal effect. Organza is commonly used in dupattas, sarees, and overlays for dresses.
While beautiful, it is a challenging fabric to work with because of its stiffness and tendency to fray. However, when executed well, Chikankari on organza creates a regal and graceful look.
6. Chiffon and Crepe: Lightweight & Graceful
Both crepe and chiffon have a light pleating effect and the garment lends itself effortlessly to this delicate feature of Chikankari. Chiffon itself is light and transparent thus a good choice of flowing garments, whereas crepe has a subtly crinkly surface, which will give contrast to the embroidery. They are also ideal fabrics to use in evening and party wear as there is unity in beauty and comfort. Nevertheless, they require close workmanship and craftsmanship to eliminate the deformation of patterns.
Final Thoughts
It is as crucial as an artisanship mainly using the correct fabric to do Chikankari embroidery. Be it the breathable cotton to casual elegance or the luxurious silk to fancy parties, all fabrics give rise to a distinct taste of this centuries old craft. Chikankari is likely to change in its adaptation to fashion trends, but the combination of the old techniques and the addition of modern material will guarantee that this form of art won always be ugly in any wardrobe.
Leave a reply