Chikankari, the timeless embroidery art from Lucknow, represents centuries of tradition and delicate craftsmanship. The process of making Chikankari is intricate, involving multiple steps and artisans with unique skill sets. Passed down through generations, this legacy continues to thrive — bridging cultures, communities, and time.
Although the tools and materials have evolved, the essence of Chikankari remains unchanged. Traditionally, certain stages of the work like block-making and printing are done by men, while the heart of the process — the embroidery — has been the proud domain of women.
Step-by-Step: How Chikankari Is Made
1. Selection of Fabric
Historically, muslin and fine cotton were the preferred choices due to their softness and transparency. Over time, artisans have adapted to newer fabrics such as chiffon, silk, voile, organza, linen, and hemp. The choice of fabric plays a crucial role in determining the final look and feel of the embroidery.
2. Block Making
At the core of every Chikankari design lies the ‘khakha’ or pattern. Skilled craftsmen carve intricate patterns into wooden blocks using chisels. Many of these blocks are heirlooms, some centuries old, preserved with great care to maintain their sharpness and beauty
3. Block Printing (Chhapai)
Once the design block is ready, it is dipped in a solution of glue and indigo dye. The artisan then carefully presses the block onto the fabric, imprinting the motif that will guide the embroidery.
4. Embroidery and Needlework
With the motifs printed, the embroidery process begins. A wooden frame holds the fabric taut while the artisan embroiders using cotton threads. There are over 30 distinct stitches used in Chikankari — including Bakhiya, Murri, Phanda, Zanzeera, Tepchi, and Khatau Pechni — each adding unique textures and depths to the design.
5. Washing and Finishing
After the embroidery is done, the fabric is soaked and washed to remove the indigo dye used in printing. It is then starched and ironed to restore stiffness and fresh appearance — making it ready for the market.
The Beauty of Handcrafted Chikankari
While machine-made replicas have entered the market, true connoisseurs value handcrafted Chikankari for its finesse, human touch, and the cultural legacy it carries. It is not just fashion — it is heritage worn with pride
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